John Symmons

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John Symmons

913 posts

Thanks for your responses and tips. Hoping to make the big trip to the real shop (500 miles (800km) not 800 miles).  Hope to pick up a kit or two and a few items you all have kindly suggested - well it is nearly Christmas!

Cheers.

 

Happy shopping & drive safely.

 

Remember we  do this for fun                              John the Pom

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi Jeff.

When you manage to visit your hobby shop I'd recommend you pick up a Humbrol colour paint chart, the printed coloiurs might be a bit aproimate in places but it's a useful guide. As for a system to Humbrol numbering it seems a bit random to me, with No 1 being grey primer, 2 & 3 being gloss emerald & brunswick green, there being no number 4. the next matt colour being No 23 duck egg blue followed by trainer yellow and so-on in a pretty arbitary manner.

 

You might like to try Vallejo colours but do try  and get their colour chart as it includes a convertion table for many pther paint manufactures including Humbrol; a very useful tool.

 

Remember we do this for fun                                  John the Pom

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi LeonF

 

Glad you like the smaller scale AFV's & soft-skins if you see any of the old ESCI kits don't hesitate but snap them up you might be very surprised especially as they're no over 25 or more years old. Also have you tried any Roden army stuff, more challenging than Airfix but a much gtreater range.

 

Remember we do this for fun                           John the Pom

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi Jeff

Very nice pair of old adversaries and even though you only had limited materials and equipment the models turned out surprisingly well and are a tribute to your ingenuity and perseverance. Normal house-hold masking tape goes funny if kept for too long, and as you say OK for painting windows, but for modelling you deserve something better. I see you’ve post a request for essential tools in the techniques forum, you might like to add some Tamiya masking tape and get a couple of fresh rolls of house-hold tape just try to get low tack if you can find it, or try an automobile paint supplier and see if they have Colad; or something simular; masking tape, it’s lime green, plastic and low tack and can be made to mask compound curves if cut nice and thin. May be a bit pricey but so is Tamiya and you only get a small roll, with Colad you get 55 metres. The other thing useful for masking is Blue-Tack or Press-Stick.

When you do finally manage that 800 mile round trip into town you’re going to have quite a shopping list just leave some money for a kit or two, oh; and before I forget more blades.

Remember we do this for fun                                        John the Pom

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi Jeff.

I echo the lists above you can never have enough sharp knives, scalpels are the best with a fairly short broard handle with plenty; I'll repeat that; plenty of blades No's 11 and 10 seem to cover most uses. Try a medical supplier or chemist if your model shop doesn't carry them, just remember they are very very sharp and you can easily cut yourself without knowing it, and suddenly your model is covered in red paint, whoops blood. It's also good to have a heavy duty knife something like the Ex-Acto type or copy of, the type with a  collet that clamps the blade as scalpel blades can easily break if used with force. Model and bead shops usually carry some good tweezers, get a small selection both open and closed ones.

 

Sanding sticks are also very useful far better than loose bits of emery paper. Try the multi-coloured ones with several grades on them, If in the chemists look at the nail care section for polishing and emery sticks, might be cheaper than the model shop. If you nearest town has an electicians supply of engineering suppliers try them for fine side cutters, they must be flat on one side and finely pointed. If you get a pair or two DO NOT use them on metal no matter how tempting it may be, keep them for plastic and they should last for-ever. Also while there see if they have very fine drills 0.3 to 1 mm depending on you requirements. Most of the drill sets sold on-line are actually used ones from circit board manufactures, and can be a bit dull, the ones from an engereering supply store will be sharp and for plastic very sharp, just never never use them in a power drill. Remember the very fine ones 0.3 to 0.5 mm are expensive and fragile.

 

If you can find a jewllery supply and or bead shop you could get a bead reamer set. This is not essential but oh-so handy in enlarging small holes when you haven't the right size drill. You might even get a small diamiter pin vice, (Ideal for drilling rigging holes in WW 1 aircraft and ships, also aerial wires on WW 2 aircraft.) most ones sold in model shops are a bit chunky.

 

Try an artist supply shop for a range of brushes both nylon and sable, (Expensive but the best, a few fine ones should do 0 to 000. Nylon is OK for the larger sizes, add a few broard flat ones 4 to 8 depending on your usage.

 

Finally if you have any money left, more blades, you WILL need them especially seeing you live soooo far out of town. Good luck and hope you have fun with your shoping and modelling and looking forward to seeing the results.

 

Remember we do this for fun & Merry Christmas.                       John the Pom

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi Leone

You must like Braille scale armour, good-on-yeah. I'm interested in what you make of the venerable Bristol F2 B, I made this kit at the start of this year (See my post Making some Old Dogs) Are you going to try the rigging? Ratch also made this kit a few months back. If you fancy a challenge try the Roden version, I've just finished that one as a nightfighter, took me 3 weeks.

 

Looking forwards to seeing the results, and keep them coming.

 

Remember we  do this for fun                                 John the Pom

 

P.S.  Have a Merry Christmas.                    JtP

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi Ratch.

I echo GNR Gordon's request. I always look at your small figure painting and I'm always impressed at the level of detail you manage to get in such small figures, even though I don't always comment. All I can say is you must have very good eye sight, a very steady hand and the patience of Job. Painting that many small figures would drive me up the wall, even just thinking abouit it makes me shiver.

 

So well done on your Waterloo set and keep them coming.

 

Remember we do this for fun                                John the Pom

John Symmons

913 posts

The list above look very like the 2018 wish lists but I would second and third the call for a new 1/72 Ju 88, but please try the C series or the BMW engined night fighters, as the A series seem to be a dime-a-dozen with every Tom-Dick-&-Harry and their cousins doing it almost to the exclusion of other marks.

 

Basically any 1938 to 45 german aircraft would sell, after all how many Bf 109E does

 

Remember we do this for fun                          John the Pom

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi Kidge.

there are many methods of achieving the chipped or weathered effect of the paint on Japanese aircraft just check back through the aircraft and techniques forum and you should find lots of help.

 

One method I came across recently that looked very good when finished, was to first paint the airframe overall alluminium. Then when dry roughly paint on Humbrol Maskol or other liquid masking solution, where you want the silver to show though. The paint the green over the airframe, and when dry rub lightly with an ordiary pencil eraiser and or press stick. this should remove the masked areas letting the silver show through. then you can touch up with some more green by dry brushing if needed. Hope this helps. Hope to see the results of your efforts.

 

Remember we do this for fun                            John the Pom

 

John Symmons

913 posts

Hi Jeff

The pics in the Me 109 shoot-out were not removed by this forum but by Photo Bucket changing their policy of not allowing free hosting. So all my photos from just after that post have gone. Luckily I do still have them on my computer but haven't reposted them. I now post direct from my computer. Glad you found the my posting and I hope it helped.

 

Remember we do this for fun                          John the Pom

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