Dad Paul B

Signature: Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Bio: Started building kits back in the 70s from the age of about 7. Spent a lot of time doing wargames figures before coming back to styrene for a work project this year. Since then I have introduced my own children (5 and 6) to the delights of model making, planes only as we don't have enough surfaces for models so back to the ceiling, just like when I was young.

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Dad Paul B

343 posts

And let's not forget a 'V-Bomber resupply set'

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

Tamiya tape is great for the under/top surface demarcation - just watch for paint bleeding under the tape edge. Once you have a paint coat retreat or drop formation is not a problem, at least on matt coats - gloss can suffer this problem. I tend not to paint the lighter camouflage colour over the whole area and fill in the second colour. This avoids level differences (occasionally an issue when using masking tape) but with acrylics you have to watch out for lines at the edge if you outline the area before filling in. these days I try to avoid doing this but drying of the paint on the palette will give variations in shade and texture.

Best of luck.

Paul

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

I had been using acrylics for years on lead figures and took a while to get used to their behaviour when Icame back to kits. Surface preparation and priming seem to be key. Getting rid of the mould release agent and having a good primer for the paint to go on. The Humbrol primer works fine if thinned with the acrylic thinner but can form droplets and retreat from areas when thinned with water. I also use Tamiya white primer spray and am trying out the Ammo Mig one-shot white. All I can suggest is try out various types and see what works for you.

Where acrylics often fall down with brush painting is opacity - with whites, yellows and red shades being particular offenders. I also run into difficulty with gloss and satin finishes when brush painting - brush marks, uneven finishes and all. With the Humbrol satins I had a lot of trouble with the pigment and carrier medium separating during drying leaving dark streaks - probably needed thinner coats than I applied for very rapid drying. For large areas of uniform colour (especially white) I have used the Humbrol acrylic spray cans without trouble - including gloss shades which I struggle with when brushing.

I tend to use a selection of Humbrol matt (easy to get at your local Hobbycraft), Vallejo and Ammo Mig acrylics (shows or online only), with a few Tamiya (also at Hobbycraft) thrown in, though these vary between shades as to how well I manage to apply them.

Acrylic varnishes are another issue - gloss tends to be OK but Satin and matt can leave a white residue. I have just started using the Ammo Mig acrylic varnishes, although mixed for airbrushing they work brilliantly with brush as well. I have also had no problem with Vallejo varnishes.

In short no 2 people will have exactly the same experience so trial and error is the way to go,.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

According to 'Sixty Years of Airfix Models' there have been 2 toolings of the Corsair - the F4U-1D in 1/72 from 1964 and a 1/48 F4U-1A in 1999, though this was a polybagged Arii kit so a few years older. A02044 is listed as a re-release in 2010 so appears to be the 1964 tooling.

It may be worth checking your local model show (listings monthly in Airfix Model World) as the prices are generally more reasonable than on-line offerings and you can check over your purchase.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

There is a small hole on the passenger side of the bonnet which takes a small mounting piece (can't remember the number though I think it is in my spares box) which carries the LMGs. Extra storage would come from either aftermarket of a different runner without the 75 mm howitzer.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

I don't have the instructions any more but from memory this sounds like it relates to the twin .303 machine gun mount on the bonnet which is an alternative to the smooth one but will need to be without the glazing. There are also 2 options for the pillar mounted MG and the canvas top. I built the airborne version and some of the options were not listed in the instructions and I am not sure if the omissions are the same in both sets.

As toweathering in the footwells - a dark earth or black wash is good for getting grime into the corners or weathering pigments (which need a spray varnish) are good for general grubbyness - though the limited space in the jeep will make this awkward.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

You could check the aftermarket options. Hannants stock a wide range (including their own) which might have an option for that operation.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

Jopres57

There is an upload picture button in the bar at the top of the post entry text box. That will take you to upload. The only issue is an upper limit on image size of around 2 MB which trips an upload error.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

I admit I tend to stop looking at threads once they get long, but you can skip to the last page right after the original post which helps if you have been following the thread.

So, on balance, it might help combat thread fatigue so may be worth trying.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

343 posts

One technique you could try is to look up the RGB codes of colours online (from any manufacturers) and print a test strip for comparison. Then paint up a test strip of the most promising colours. This won't be perfect as printers can vary a bit and the paints can vary a bit, also depending on the colour of the primer.

This may cut down the number of paint samples you need.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

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