Paul Brown

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Paul Brown

789 posts


You could use both figures to portray a Red Arrow doing a positioning flight. Crew chiefs get to travel with their pilot and would probably wear a green flight suit and a white bone dome.

Paul Brown

789 posts


In the world of paint manufacturing, getting every batch of the same specific colour in exactly the same specific shade is probably akin to finding the Holy Grail. The only question I'd put to you is did you stir each tinlet thoroughly before application? That can have an impact on the appearance of the colour. 

Paul Brown

789 posts


 

You can see on the photo where I removed material from the top and also at the side where it's not visible. Once you do this the fuselage halves will fit together snugly, no filler required.

Paul Brown

789 posts


The instrument panel piece on this kit requires quite a bit of trimming, once you do that everything will go together nicely.

Paul Brown

789 posts


It should be OK if you let the acrylic set for 2-3 days, but I would test it out first on scrap or a 'donkey' before committing to the model. 

Paul Brown

789 posts


Clay wash is clay that's heavily diluted, with added pigment to produce it in different colours. There's nothing else in it, so it's pretty much non-toxic. the only thing I add to it is a tiny drop of washing up liquid that reduces the surface tension and helps it flow over a flat surface. I use Flory Wash, it's not widely stocked in model shops, but you can get it direct from the Flory web pages. Phil Flory does demo videos that you can find on Youtube, for instance, here. If you're going to use clay washes it's important to note it must be used over smooth/glossy surfaces, overwithise it's difficult to remove and will stain the paintwork.

 

I'd recommend having a look at the tutorial by Plasmo if you want to try oil paint washes, you can find it here.

 

The Humbrol tutorials are also worth checking out for 'how to' use Humbrol enamel wash. 

Paul Brown

789 posts


There are some Brit nuke subs out there in 1/350, but not by Airfix. Wink

Paul Brown

789 posts


There's no guarantee that hot solvents won't react with aqueous acrylic. Personally I always gloss overcoat base layers before applying washes. I still have some old formula Klear that is as tough as old boots once set and doesn't usually react with other media. Once it's all gone I'll be experimenting with other gloss coats to find out which is most robust. Gloss is ideal for decal adhesion and washes, it makes the former stick better and the latter easier to remove. Mostly I use clay washes, they're a doddle to apply, then remove the excess with water, but I recently obtained some Tamiya Panel Line Accents and these are enamel based, so thinners will be necessary. I've watched some videos using pigments mixed with thinner, but not tried it. I think the trick with any washing is to not let it set too hard before removing, then remove gently with moistened paper towels or swabs. It should reduce the possibility of reactions with the other finishes.

Paul Brown

789 posts


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Paul Brown

789 posts


^^^ What Ratch says. Enamel thinner is relatively hot and always likely to react with acrylic media. You don't say what sort of wash you're using, does it need to be removed with enamel thinners? 

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