Dad Paul B

Signature: Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Bio: Started building kits back in the 70s from the age of about 7. Spent a lot of time doing wargames figures before coming back to styrene for a work project this year. Since then I have introduced my own children (5 and 6) to the delights of model making, planes only as we don't have enough surfaces for models so back to the ceiling, just like when I was young.

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Dad Paul B

387 posts

You would need an organic solvent. In the old days Trichloroethane would have been the first choice but is no longer available- bad for people and the environment. Possible options, though I have not tried to do this so cannot guarantee that they will work, could be Acetone or possibly Methyl-Ethyl Ketone (this is the solvent used in polystyrene cement and at its most concentrated in Liquid Poly Cement - the precision and tube stuff contains dissolved styrene so will not be of use).

Isopropyl Alcohol won't dissolve the PVA but may weaken the bond by dissolving material trapped on the surface, enabling you to peel it off more effectively.White Spirit or Turpentine may do this as well.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

You could also try Johnsons Future/Klear floor polish as I have read articles where this was used to clean up scratched clear parts. As Ratch says you probably need to take the pieces out first. The effect is caused by solvent fumes (Methyl-Ethyl Ketone) dissolving the surface of the clear styrene and roughening the very smooth surface.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

This is one that has been in my stash for a while having been snubbed for a display model of a C8 by the Revell kit which came out shortly after I acquired this one (mainly the H2S bubble under the fuselage). I have subsequently finished it out of the box.

The kit was tooled in 1963 and is very impressive for its time - interior detail (primitive by modern standards but rare at the time) and moveable control surfaces. As usual you start with the cockpit and it is notable that there were some tooling errors (the aft bulkhead has features which should be on the middle (floor supports and the slot for the flight deck base). Mounting is basic so it is worth using the fuselage as a jig to get the positioning correct. You get a full crew, basic castings and only a torso for the tail gunner. Gun turrets are poseable but basic. The gun spacing needs to be set around the transparencies for fit and there was a lot of flash around the gun barrels which caused some barrel shortning on the delicate pieces.

Cockpit assambly.

I chose to remove the rivet detailing over the model as it was prominent, not linked to panel lines and would interfere with the larger decals. This was fairly simple to accomplish. It was during assembly that I realised part of the port horizontal stabiliser was missing. Due to the age of the kit and 5 years since its last issue no spare was available so I scratch built a replacement from plasticard. Not difficult using the upper surface as a template.

The elevators, rudders an ailerons were all fixed rather than left moveable (I broke one of the rudders while sanding off the detailing but was intending to fix them in place anyway). Fit was still pretty good, though the underside seam was a little ragged in places.

One issue I did find was that the transparencies had very little of their detail left, due to years of polishing the moulds for clarity. Only the cockpit canopy had discernable detail so the turrets were left clear. The nose bubble frames were cobbled from die cut masks to great effect and there was enough left on the cockpit to guide mask fitting.

The ailerons were designed to be hinged but the pins were fairly short and the parts quite chunky so again I fixed them in place - the landing gear doors and legs are also designed to be movable but again would be vulberable to damage. Painting was in the usual Dark Earth/Bronze Green over night black (I used Vallejo Black Grey).The decal sheet was very nice, especially the nose art, though to minimise the presence of carrier film some of the little protrusions were a little tricky to position flat.

For its time this is a very kit but has now been overtaken by technology. The tooling also seems to be getting fairly tired from half a century of stirling service. I suspect the 2014 issue may be its last. Completed pictures below.

I set the ailerons and turrets without checking which side the nose art was on. So it is about to corkscrew in the other direction to deal with a night fighter (to be added at some point in the future).

Paul

 

 

 

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

It could be that the gloss finish throws these little particles into sharp relief. Ehen reading the model magazines one trick I have come across is polishing the gloss coat (and the underlying primer) with very very fine sand paper or a polishing cloth. It is likely that these are dust particles which stick to the paint while drying. Covering the model immediately after painting might help but this stuff is everywhere.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

There was a paint chart with equivalent conversions for a large range of other manufacturers in Airfix Model World a while back. You should also be able to find a pdf paint chart somewhere on this website (can't recall where but I know I have had 2 different ones in the last few years so they are around somewhere - try a web search).

Another useful tool is a website that will provide the RGB codes for paint colours from various manufacturers (just search for the colour/code and RGB) which is fairly useful if you are printing your own decals.

Matches are not perfect (printer variability) and you can't print the metallic tones but reasonably good.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

I never tried sailing my ships (Graf Spee, Ark Royal and several Novo Frigates). Top heavy as I recall.

As to the Brownie camera - a fixed focal length and limited depth of field meaning its ideal range was around 10 feet to infinity. No Macro options here.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

I am looking forward to the 17, but my favourite was always the 21 Fishbed.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

The Vintage Classics have a tooling date printed on the front together with the Artist credit for the painting. Revell have 2 ranges of armour. 1/72 which are quite pricy and 1/76 which are the old Matchbox kits at a lower price (can't recall what they are). I have several of the upcoming classics on my list for Airfix Battles (wargaming drove armour kit building when I was at school as the school had a club and we built a lot of tanks before switching to 1/300 scale).

The main competitors will be Armourfast and Plastic Soldier rather than Revell and Italeri.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

Well there is a nice 1/72 tool for the Typhoon and all the CAD data so a Car Door is 'mostly there' so possible. We haven't seen 1/72 conversions of 1/48 kits yet but the Meteor would be a popular choice and the Typhoon clearly made use of the data collected for the 1/24 so 'maybe'.

P-38. Hard to tell. There are a few US WW2 new tools in the bank but this may be less likely as the RAF never adopted. Mostly down to trials carried out by 'Winkle' Brown whose verdict was roughly - not as good as the Mustang. Didn't help that the Ministry of Aircraft Production chose not to go with 'handed' engines for maintenance reasons which affected the performance of the prototypes. So 'not that likely'.

But you never know.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

Dad Paul B

387 posts

This scheme is usually defined as Silver (11) and Fluorescent Fire Orange (209). You need to be patient with the Fire Orange as it is partially translucent so you may want to put a solid Orange underneath (though the Humbrol Gloss Orange (18) can also be a pain, at least in Acrylic). Reds and Yellows are notoriously lacking in opacity and not just Humbrol. I have done the Vampire is this scheme and my son the Gnat.

The Orange does work over a white primer tolerably well, the unevenness matches some photos of the era - and a little on the rear fuselage of yours, but you will need quite a few coats which leads to a step at the boundary with the silver. I don't know how the enamels go but I had quite a faff when using gloss white to try and over come opacity issues with acrylic.

You can buy decal sets of individual letters and numbers for the serials but I am not sure if you will be able to get the quarters square badge - you may need to self print that.

Paul - Classic Jet Fan

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