Peter s

All Posts

Peter s

41 posts

@T2B

Yes that's what I thought regarding the bombs just wondered if anyone had the definitive answer? And as for the rear fuselage detail there are only a couple of small port holes as waist gunners positions weren't fitted till later versions of the Mitchell so little will be seen. 

 

However given the lack of internal fuselage ribbing are Airfix planning on doing any of the later H/J versions? The large opaque glass parts on the side fuselage could be replaced with waist gunners positions so it may be possible, but of course the dorsal turret would also need repositioning just behind the cockpit? The more I think about it the more I think it's unlikely which would be a shame! 

I thought the same. The huge glass waist panels which end up 95% painted over are "curious". Clearly a reason there but using this kit to make an H/J would need a whole new fuselage (tail position is quite different too in the later ones)

 

ps regarding nose weight. I used a deep sea lead fishing weight carefully trimmed and hammered to fit the void space in the nose and that is barely adequate. If I build another I'd try and hide extra lead in any crack i could find. 

Peter s

41 posts

@T2B

Yes if memory serves me correctly from when I built a couple in the long and distant past, the ladder fits onto the main spar running along the bottom of the bomb bay and acts to support the tail heavy beast in the correct position on it's nose wheel, however to accomplish this the bomb bay is required to be displayed open.

 

For the closed bomb bay option, some weight would still be required but you could use the bomb bay space so long as you kept the weight forward of the pivot point (e.g. the main under-carriage legs)!

The main wheels are peculiarly far forward compared to other aircraft (level with bomb bay)  I'm wise to this after a P38 tail sitter . The kit i built has a bulkhead behind the cockpit and another in front of the bomb bay (I'm  sure it's the radio / navigator room) loads of space for weight in there. I'm sure the Airfix is similar. 

Peter s

41 posts

I've got a rivals B26 and I've never tackled the Airfix but as a modelling subject it's a good one. Decent size , a good choice of colour scheme and if you look at Google images of real ones potential for a fairly heavily weathered model. My B25 needed plenty of lead in the nose to avoid tail sitting but the B26 was bonkers. I've got a 2oz deep sea fishing weight beaten square and filling the entire radio room to keep it on its nose. From experience I've never built a WW2 tricycle undercarriage plane that didn't need plenty of lead in the nose.

Peter s

41 posts

@T2B

It'll be good to see the kit come together if you can manage to post it as I don't have this kit in my stash yet! And apart from a very rare few, of which I'm not 1 we all use the forum to pick up tips and help improve our skills and finished models!

Ok. It's built (but that was quite easy... The box is Lancaster size but the parts count about halfway between Beaufighter and lanc... Probably easier than the Dornier 17) and it's got a bare bones coat of olive drab. I'll start taking pics from now on and probably post a build diary in one go. I'm more into painting and weathering than building.

 

If you're interested in one it's got 5/5 for build quality and parts fit. The C/D version doesn't have the greatest choice for final schemes but North Africa had some cool cammo schemes and they fought in the Pacific too. There's an early cowling option in the kit so I'm sure you could back date to a Doolittle raid example

Peter s

41 posts

@Peter s

@ Peter s

 

Have you thought about posting your completed B-25 On the aircraft thread with a little blurb so we can all see it built?

 

I'll take a few pics and have a go. I'm happy with my finished models but they look horrible until they come together at the end ☺ (maybe that's why I should share) So far it's built according to instructions but I haven't worried about the turrets yet. They can be done in parallel with the main build.

Peter s

41 posts

@T2B

@ Peter s

 

Have you thought about posting your completed B-25 On the aircraft thread with a little blurb so we can all see it built?

 

Peter s

41 posts

I've had the B25 C/D in my stash since it came out and finally built it this weekend. Apart from the boring decal schemes i can thoroughly recommend it. It's quite a compact little bomber but bags of detail. The biggest issue is getting enough lead into it to stop it sitting on its tail.

(I've bought after market decals for a North Africa / Italy scheme btw)

Peter s

41 posts

@james_mower

To the OP, keep it simple for your first bomber, so opt for either a single or twin-engined tail dragger...

 

Stuka!... The first model I ever built on my own. Also perfect for raining hell down on civilians. Straight forward to build and paint yet still a great model. Also no dilemma about wheels up\down . Only drawback is that it's such a third Reich icon people could jump to conclusions if it's the only model on your desk. You may want a spitfire to compliment it.

Peter s

41 posts

@david_hughes2

I also purchased the red nose (A68208) version from Aldi and it had the wrong decals.  Airfix were great and got me the correct ones within 2 days.

It made me wonder how much buying power they must have because I purchased the blue nose version (A01004A) last year from a 'proper' model shop for £6.59.  The Aldi 'special' was £4/£5 and came with glue, brush and paints.

Anyway...the finished model above looks great.

The reason I keep buying little Mustangs is to eventually have a go at a BMF.  I was wondering:

  • Which paints did you use?
  • How you masked for the nose without the BMF coming off?
  • Did you use decal solution for the decals?
I ask because on my 'spoons' the metalisers are variable, come off with masking tape and react to MicroSol. Any advice would be appreciated. David

I've found Humbrol polished aluminium metalcote in a spray can gives a really nice metallic silver finish and will never pull off with masking tape (Tamiya masking tape is low tack but sticking it on your arm reduces the rack further) metalcote is fine with  microsol but acrylic varnish will attack and dull it. I use Johnson's floor polish on metalcote instead.

 

generally if masking is pulling off paint you need a better primer or you need longer drying time. Vallejo model air is touch dry in minutes but can take 24hours to harden fully.

Peter s

41 posts

"Raining down hell on a city" sounds like you'd want a 4 engine heavy bomber like a Lancaster or B17. Both of these are complex kits though.

For a newer modeller I'd stick to a twin engine bomber initially. The Airfix Blenheim is great and fairly simple to build (and you can have the bomb bay open). The B26 is an option too. It's not quite a bomber but the rocket or torpedo armed Beaufighter is a personal favourite.

Forum Rules

  • The Airfix Forum is intended for discussion of plastic scale modelling. Primarily a place for newcomers to ask questions and seek assistance from like-minded individuals, the Airfix Forum offers users the chance to join an active and friendly community.
  • Discussion of other plastic model kit manufacturers is allowed, however, active promotion or advertising of our competitors is not permitted.
  • Please keep in mind that the Airfix Forum is a publicly viewable space and you should never post personal information (including email addresses).
  • While every effort is made to contact you before any censorship, we reserve the right to amend or remove any content without explanation.
  • All customer service enquiries should be directed to Airfix Customer Services.

Useful Links

Forum Guidelines

Membership Restricted Product